Sew a Rib Knit Band (12737 Views)

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  Step 1 of 15

  Sure, a t-shirt is simple enough to make. But have you ever struggled to create the rib knit band at the neckline or armholes? Well. . . if you are lucky enough to find a rib knit that matches your shirt fabric, try it using these following steps.

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  Step 2 of 15

  First off, make sure you have the correct rib knit fabric. Rib knits are created by alternating knit and purl stitches. When cut, the edges do not curl up. It is usually sold in a tubular form, by the inch or by the yard. It has a great crosswise stretch.

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  Step 3 of 15

  Gather all of your supplies. If you are trimming the neckline, it is very helpful to have the pattern of your shirt. If you do not have it, don't fret. Just take the measurements from the shirt you are adding trim to very carefully. Note that seam allowances for this How To are 5/8" (1.5 cm). These are instructions for attaching a rib knit band to the neckline of a shirt. This can be used for sleeve, armhole, and hem finishes as well, or just about anywhere else you want to add some stretchy finish!

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  Step 4 of 15

  To measure how long your band should be for a neckline or armhole, measure along the pattern seam line. If the pattern includes the seam allowance but does not have the seam line marked off, mark it.

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  Step 5 of 15

  To measure with complete accuracy, stand a measuring tape or use a flexible ruler.

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  Step 6 of 15

  Now, do the math.

  To create a band to fit the neckline of my shirt, I took measurements off the Front pattern piece (which is a cut on fold) and the Back pattern piece (also cut on fold), so I had to multiply my measurements by 2.

  The total front neckline is 15 1/2" (40.4 cm) and the back neckline is 7 1/4" (18.6 cm). Adding these, I find the total length is 22" (58.8 cm) long.

  The ribbing needs to be two-thirds of the neckline length- so the ribbing piece will be 22" X 2/3= 14 5/8" (58.8 cm X 2/3= 37.6 cm). Then, add 5/8" (1.5cm) seam allowance to each side, so the final length of the strip will be 15 7/8" (40.8 cm).

  Next, to determine the width, cut a piece that is twice the desired width, and add seam allowance. I want a 3/8" (.95 cm) wide band. Rib knit is folded, with the folded edge created the outer finished seam for band trim, so this is doubled. Then, add the 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowance to each side, and I have a total width of 2" (5.1 cm).

  So, the strip I am cutting will be: 15 7/8" long by 2" wide (or 40.8 cm long by 5.1 cm wide)

  NOTE: For a v-neck, the length of the rib knit band should be the same as the measurement of the neckline.

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  Step 7 of 15

  Mark the width of the piece, perpendicular to the ribbed stitches.

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  Step 8 of 15

  Cut the width, with the knit still in its tubular form. Then cut the tube at one end so that you can lay the piece flat to cut the length.

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  Step 9 of 15

  Fold the band in half, right sides facing. Pin at the open edge, and sew at 5/8". This seam will later be the center back.

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  Step 10 of 15

  Trim and turn right side out.

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  Step 11 of 15

  Fold in half lengthwise, with right side out. Now fold to find the center and quarter marks.

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  Step 12 of 15

  Then mark the Center front and center back on the opening you want to attach it to.

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  Step 13 of 15

  With the band on the right side of the shirt, and edges aligned, in the center front of the band to the center front of the shirt, and same for the center backs.
  

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  Step 14 of 15

  Now begin sewing with a ball point needle, stretching the ribbing to fit as you are sewing it in place. Sew with inside out for easier control and movement.

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  Step 15 of 15

  Press, but do not iron, the band upwards. Finish by serging or using an overedge stitch. You can also finish jersey with 2 rows of zig zag or two rows of straight stitching. Use this technique for the soon to be posted t-shirts you've all been waiting for! And try it out on any other projects, maybe even in some unexpected places!