Lydia-Variation2-Top (4693 Views)

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  Step 1 of 17

  The black/gold variations on pattern 3197 Sleeveless, loose fitted and long, perfect with a big belt over leggings or a cool pair of jeans.

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  Step 2 of 17

  This is the Front and Back of the pattern all taped together. In the next steps you will see how to get a looser fit in waist and hip as well as adding some room to the bust. Additionally I decided to extend the shoulder seam to the Front in order to add a nice button detail.

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  Step 3 of 17

  1. Extend the side seam on the waist (at waist notch) for ½”
  2. Extend the side seam at the hem for ¼”
  3. Connect the original side seam on the armhole with the new side seam on the waist and hem in a smooth curved line. Do so on the Front and Back pattern piece.
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  Step 4 of 17

  Take the Front pattern piece. Draw in a line perpendicular to the original cutting line of the shoulder seam of the size needed with a distance of 1 ½ “. I made a size 34, therefore I measured in from the cutting line of the size 34 shoulder seam.

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  Step 5 of 17

  The part in between original and new shoulder seam (marked in green) needs to be cut off. In a later step that same amount will be attached to the Back.

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  Step 6 of 17

  . Add 5/8” seam allowance to the new shoulder seam. (Tip: tape another piece of paper to the seam and draw in the new cutting line)

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  Step 7 of 17

  Take the back pattern. Draw in the actual sewing line perpendicular to the cutting line on the shoulder by measuring 5/8” in from the cutting line.

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  Step 8 of 17

  . From that line measure out 1 ½” (that is the amount that we had taken away from the Front) and draw a perpendicular line to the old shoulder seam. Connect the new shoulder cutting line with the armhole on one and the neckline on the other side.

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  Step 9 of 17

  Bring out the shoulder for 3/8” and smooth in the new line with the original armhole (see pink marks)

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  Step 10 of 17

  Do the same on the Front shoulder.

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  Step 11 of 17

  Raise the Neckline from the Front Center up 3” (marked in pink). Draw in a the new neckline, starting at the shoulder to that point (marked in green).

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  Step 12 of 17

  Optional additional change: If you are using a fabric, that has a nice drape, you may want to add some extra fullness to the neck, to create a softer neckline. In order to do that, you need to draw in a straight line from the mid-neckline diagonally meeting the side seam at about the height of the waist notch. (pink line)

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  Step 13 of 17

  Slash the line from the neckline to the waist. Tip: slash in from the other side towards the waist as well, just so that you don’t cut the pattern apart. that way it is possible to move the two legs of the cut line apart.

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  Step 14 of 17

  Tape one side of the slash on a paper. Move the other side of the slash over, until the distance in between the two slashes at the neckline measures ½”. If you want to create a lot of extra room and draping, move the slash even further apart.

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  Step 15 of 17

  Draw in a smooth neckline.

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  Step 16 of 17

  Extend the hem (bottom of the shirt for 2 1/2 “. This measurement depends on your own height and likes. Do so on the Front and Back of the pattern!

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  Step 17 of 17

  The shoulder seams I finished with a rib knit, instead of simply sewing the two seams together. Once the rib was sewn on back and front neckline and shoulder seams, I pinned them together and attached the buttons. I also finished the armholes with a rib knit right over the shoulder seam. Any questions??